Since Indian classical dances became performing rather than ritualistic arts, various changes occured, starting from technique and repertoire and finishing with costumes, make-up and hair style.
About a month ago, when my little Chinese friend, Lila, was here, she showed me a huge and beautiful book on sarees she found in the Kalamandalam library. There, apart from hundred of saree folding styles, were the pictorial reconstructions of sarees worn by dancers of various Indian classical dance traditions.
To tell the truth, I don't like contemporary mohiniyattam costume - it looks bulky, boring, absolutely not flattering female figure and neither the postures of the dance. It is only my opinion, however. But how surprised was I to see how the actual saree tied for mohiniyattam changed te look dramatically. Like a fairy dress it is aerial, simple yet elegant.
As an irony, they have also placed a picture of a contemporary mohiniyattam danseuse costume. The side bun, which is now "in fashion" but in reality almost "the only way" for mohiniyattam hairstyle doesn't add elegance to the look. I have always found it looking strange, creating somewhat asymmetry in the body and greatly interfering in the perception of the dance, though flowing, but clear geometry. Apparently, no one has been using side bun until 1960s, when it got introduced without any historic reference (the side hairstyle was used by a different cast not related to dancers). Now the side bun became a "trademark" of mohiniyattam. When I did a performance of one mohiniyattam piece in Minsk, wearing a normal back bun, majority of people, and people who have learned extensively and know a lot about dance, were indignantly asking me what kind of mohiniyattam is it without a side bun :)
oh well.
To make a beautiful mohiniyattam saree draping one needs to follow the photograph above and simple steps:
- Wrap the inner end piece around waist clockwise and tie knot at right waist
- Make seven to eight pleats of free end-piece in front
- Pull gathered pleats upward and hold with chin. Bring free end piece to right waist over pleats
- Leave held gathered pleats down and bring free end-piece from left to right waist anti-clockwise
- Throw outer end-piece over left shoulder front to back
- Bring outer end-piece to front anticlockwise and tuck into front waist
There are also photographa of Bharatanatyam, Kuchipudi and Odissi style saree
*the photographs are not of a perfect quality, because our library is very dark and the other day when I tried to reclick the photos, I couldn't find the book any more...
